Behind the main hall of Xiangguo Temple, the stalls at Zisheng Gate displayed books, paintings, and rare treasures—another delight altogether. A true master of embroidery must also excel in calligraphy and painting. Jin Niang’s painting skills were mediocre, so she could only buy artworks she admired and copy them—a clever shortcut.
With this in mind, she first sent Si'er to wait under the corridor.
Spotting another stall selling calligraphy and paintings, she hurried over and asked, "Do you have any works by Xu Xi or Xu Chongsi from the Five Dynasties period? If you have Huang Quan’s pieces, even better."
The vendor grinned. "I have them all here."
"How much do they cost?" Jin Niang wasn’t looking for originals. Thanks to the invention of movable-type printing, books in the Song Dynasty were much cheaper, and paintings weren’t exorbitantly priced either. For a newly famous artist, a set of six landscape paintings would cost just one bolt of silk or two strings of coins.
Sure enough, the vendor said, "The albums you mentioned are one silver coin each."
In the past, they would’ve cost around two hundred coins. Jin Niang immediately bargained, "How about this—I’ll take all three, and you give me a discount."
Hearing her haggle, the vendor put on a pained expression. "Miss, these are brand new!"
"They may be new, but they’re just reproductions. The paper isn’t even aligned properly, and this kind of paper will barely last a year or two. I won’t argue much—three albums for one and a half coins. If you agree, I’ll take them right now." Jin Niang thought that if he refused, she’d just buy one from another stall first.
Seeing her take out the money, the vendor pretended to relent. "Fine, fine, take them. I’ll wrap them up for you."
With the three albums in hand, Jin Niang was overjoyed. These three masters were pioneers of the "boneless" painting technique and renowned for their bird-and-flower compositions. Since she specialized in embroidering birds and flowers, these albums would ensure her needlework stood out for at least the next two years.
If only she could focus on her own painting and freely design clothing.
After buying the albums, she went to fetch Si'er. Though she had taken Si'er under her wing, it never hurt to be cautious. Speak but three parts of your mind; never bare your heart entirely. Too many apprentices had surpassed their masters, leaving them with nothing. Even Madam Chen only gave them occasional pointers, never teaching them everything.
"Let’s go. You must be tired—I lost track of time looking at books," Jin Niang said with a smile.
Si'er shook her head. "You let me rest while you worked. It’s all for my sake."
Jin Niang walked out with her and treated her to a bowl of chilled mung bean soup before they went to find Kuang San'er for the journey back. Upon returning, Jin Niang laid out a straw mat. Fang Qiaoling teased, "You were gone so long just to buy a mat?"
"You all have godmothers spoiling you with gifts. I don’t, and I’m practically roasting alive. If I don’t get this, I’ll burn my back and never sleep again." After spreading the mat, Jin Niang sat down to plan the pearl-embroidered gown. She counted the pearls—twenty small ones in total. It wasn’t enough for a collar or front panel, so she decided to place them on the bodice.
A pearl-embroidered gown should be opulent, adorned with peonies. Her newly acquired album even had Xu Xi’s Red Peonies—a vision of radiant beauty. If peonies graced the bodice, the front panel could feature long-tailed birds and camellias. Together, the motifs symbolized longevity and prosperity, a perfect auspicious pairing.
The real highlight, however, would be the peony-shaped pouch with a long-tailed bird design, fastened with a pearl button.
Once she had the design in mind, she went to the storeroom for fabric. The embroiderers spent their days from dawn till dusk sewing, and time slipped away unnoticed. Si'er had already fetched hot water. Jin Niang smiled. "From now on, bring your basin here. You can wash up before heading back—it’s more convenient."
"Mm," Si'er agreed cheerfully.
After Fang Qiaoling fell asleep, Si'er whispered, "Sister Jin Niang, Qin Shuang'er has just become the goddaughter of Nanny Lin, the second young master’s wet nurse."
Jin Niang wasn’t surprised. Qin Shuang'er clearly aspired to be a concubine—she blushed whenever the second young master was mentioned. Jin Niang wouldn’t interfere as long as Qin Shuang'er stopped spreading rumors about her and stirring trouble in the embroidery workshop.
So she told Si'er, "Don’t worry about such matters. Let her be."
Si'er nodded, and Jin Niang added, "These days, I’ll be making clothes for the eldest miss. Come early, and I’ll assign you needlework exercises. Practice diligently, understand?"
"I will, Sister Jin Niang. After you wash up, I’ll pour out the water before leaving," Si'er said with a smile.
Jin Niang gave an approving nod.
By the time Jin Niang finished bathing and prepared for bed, Qin Shuang'er returned and stayed up late sewing by lamplight. Fortunately, they slept in separate rooms, so the disturbance was minimal.
The next morning, Si'er and Little He brought breakfast. Jin Niang first sketched a leaf with charcoal and instructed Si'er, "Today, use long-and-short stitches. Don’t keep calling me over when you make mistakes—persevere on your own."
As Si'er took up her needlework nearby, Madam Chen observed quietly. She knew Madam Jiang had long instructed them to train Si'er and Little He as successors. Yet, among the embroiderers, only Jin Niang had taken the initiative to teach Si'er—the others ignored the younger girls.
After a moment’s thought, Madam Chen said to Qin Shuang'er and Fang Qiaoling, "You two should also guide Little He more."
It wasn’t fair to keep ordering her around without teaching her anything.
Little He looked hopefully at Qin Shuang'er. In her eyes, Fang Qiaoling was too preoccupied with appearances and aloof, while Jin Niang, though skilled, was somewhat intimidating with her sharp tongue and plump figure. Qin Shuang'er, however, was gentle, steady, and well-liked—being her friend carried prestige.
Sure enough, Qin Shuang'er smiled. "Then I’ll teach Little He."
Madam Chen nodded approvingly. "Good. After Sister Shan left, we’ve only had the three of you. If you can train Si'er and Little He, we’ll have two more helpers."
Fang Qiaoling merely smiled without comment.
Madam Chen assessed the three silently. In the embroidery workshop, Qin Shuang'er appeared the most dignified and popular, but in truth, she was the type to foolishly chase after flames. Fang Qiaoling, though seemingly vain and distant, had her own plans—yet those very plans limited her. As for Jin Niang, when the bamboo-patterned robe needed mending, she’d claimed she couldn’t do it, yet she’d succeeded where others failed.
She never flattered superiors nor bullied inferiors, worked diligently, and had a sharp mind with hidden depths—truly clever.
After Madam Chen assigned Little He’s training, Lv Ying came to ask Jin Niang about the pearl-embroidered gown. "The First Lady asked why the design hasn’t been sent over yet."
Jin Niang smiled. "Alright, I’ll deliver it now."
She hated nothing more than others meddling with her designs—amateurs dictating to professionals. But since Lv Ying had mentioned it, she had no choice but to submit the draft.
If only she could work at the Shu Embroidery Pavilion someday, designing clothes entirely in her own style.
As expected, when presented with Jin Niang's sketch, Madam Jiang expressed some dissatisfaction: "Why are the pearls only sewn onto the bodice? Such a waste."
Jin Niang took a deep breath, preparing to persuade her: "To answer Madam's question, most pearl-embroidered garments nowadays are stitched either on the bodice or along the collar. However, the collar trim is too long and requires pearls on both sides, meaning at least seventy or eighty pearls would be needed. In my humble opinion, embroidering a red peony on the bodice—using the finest satin—would achieve an elegant and luxurious effect without being overly elaborate."
After speaking, she showed Madam Jiang her copy of Xu Xi's red peony painting, which she intended to use as the embroidery design. "This is the peony planned for the bodice. Another highlight will be the pouch, but since that will be added after the dress is completed, I haven't sketched it yet."
Upon seeing the peony, Madam Jiang was somewhat convinced. She set the paper aside and remarked, "I heard you were the one who repaired the second young master's bamboo-patterned undergarment last time?"
"Yes. Cuixian had gone to the sewing room and initially sought help from a few others, but none of them had seen such a garment before. I happened to have read about it in a book, so I gave it a try—and it worked." Jin Niang didn’t boast about her achievement.
After all, if she appeared too skilled, she might be forced into becoming a concubine, exploited for her talents without pay, and then cast aside once her beauty faded. She wasn’t foolish enough to let that happen.
Madam Jiang, finding Jin Niang’s reasoning clear and reliable, nodded. "Very well. From now on, you needn’t take on any other tasks—just focus on this one."
"Yes, I obey," Jin Niang replied.
After Jin Niang left, Madam Jiang congratulated herself on her shrewdness. If such intricate embroidery and pearl work were commissioned outside, the cost would be at least fifteen strings of cash. But with her own seamstresses, it only cost one tael of silver per month.
Meanwhile, the Aunt had also tasked Sister Shan with making clothes for her daughter. Thanks to the old madam’s financial support—such as the gardenia-yellow silk gauze she had provided—the Aunt now had more resources at hand.
Her only concern was her daughter’s marriage prospects. With ample funds, the old madam had promised to contribute to her dowry, and by having her daughter show kindness to the maids, they all became obedient and devoted.
"How about pairing it with a lake-blue three-pleated skirt?" Sister Shan suggested, recalling a similar combination she had once seen in Jin Niang’s sketchbook.
The Aunt nodded in approval. Without spending a single coin, she had secured a highly skilled embroiderer for her daughter. As the saying goes, "Fine feathers make fine birds." If her daughter dressed well, she might catch the eye of a wealthy family when presented in society.
What she hadn’t anticipated was Madam Jiang’s ruthless retaliation for "stealing" Jin Niang—even forbidding her daughter from attending social gatherings during her own birthday celebration. Though the old madam was her birth mother, she no longer managed household affairs and rarely went out. As a guest in this household, the Aunt received no invitations, leaving her fuming.
Even with fine clothes, her daughter had no chance to be seen.
Lost in thought, she gathered a few unwanted pastries, packed them in a box, and headed to Madam Jiang’s quarters to pay a visit. Unexpectedly, at the entrance, she encountered two young men approaching together. The elder one was tall, handsome, and exuded nobility in his brocade robes and purple-gold crown. The younger boy, however, was even more strikingly charming.
These two turned out to be Madam Jiang’s nephews from her maternal family. The Aunt’s heart stirred at the thought—the Jiang family was filled with officials and immense wealth.
